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The short answer: To lower the action on your Yamaha FG800, you’ll need to adjust the truss rod, file the nut slots, and sand the saddle. These three adjustments can bring the string height down to a comfortable 2.0 to 2.5 mm at the 12th fret, making it much easier to play.
The Yamaha FG800 is a fantastic acoustic guitar, but it often ships with action that’s a bit high for many players. This is intentional for durability and to accommodate a wide range of playing styles, but it can cause finger fatigue and make barre chords tough. A proper setup will not only lower the action but also improve intonation and overall playability. Here are the tools you’ll need: a truss rod wrench (usually 4mm), a capo, a ruler with 64th-inch markings or a feeler gauge, a pencil, masking tape, a small file set for nut slots, sandpaper (220 and 400 grit), and a screwdriver (for some models).
Before you start, you need to know where you’re at. Use a ruler to measure the distance from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the low E string. On a new FG800, this is often around 3.0 to 3.2 mm. The high E string is usually around 2.0 to 2.5 mm. Write these numbers down so you can track your progress. Also, check the relief: hold the low E string down at the 1st fret and the 14th fret, then check the gap at the 7th fret. It should be about 0.2 to 0.3 mm. If there’s more space, the neck has too much relief; if the string touches the fret, it’s too straight.
The truss rod controls neck relief and is the first thing to adjust because it affects all strings. On the FG800, the adjustment nut is inside the soundhole, near the neck joint. Loosen the strings slightly to reduce tension. Insert the 4mm wrench and turn it clockwise to tighten (reducing relief) or counterclockwise to loosen (adding relief). Make small adjustments, about 1/8 of a turn, then retune and check the relief. If you want lower action, you’ll likely need to reduce relief a bit, but don’t overdo it; the neck should have a slight bow. After each adjustment, wait a few minutes for the wood to settle before measuring.
The nut can make a big difference in the first few frets. If the strings are too high there, barre chords are hard. Use a capo on the 3rd fret, then measure the gap between the string and the 1st fret. Ideally, it should be about 0.3 to 0.5 mm for the low E and slightly less for the high E. If it’s higher, you need to file the nut slots. Use a set of nut files that match your string gauges, or carefully use a small round file. Wrap the file in tape to protect the nut’s finish. File a little at a time, working on each slot individually. For the low E, file in a slight angle toward the peghead, but keep the bottom flat. After each pass, remove the tape and test. Once the strings are at the right height, you can polish the slots with 400 grit sandpaper.
The saddle is the final major adjustment. It controls the action at the 12th fret. Remove the strings and the saddle from the bridge. The saddle is held in by string tension, but you may need to loosen all strings and gently rock it out. Mark the bottom of the saddle with a pencil. To lower the action by 1 mm at the 12th fret, you need to remove 2 mm from the saddle (because the string length doubles from the saddle to the 12th fret). So, if you want to lower the low E from 3.0 to 2.5 mm, you need to remove 1 mm from the saddle. Use 220 grit sandpaper on a flat surface, and sand the bottom of the saddle, keeping it perfectly flat. Work slowly, checking the height periodically. When sanding, always keep the saddle straight; you don’t want it to rock. After you’ve sanded, clean off any dust.
Now, put everything back together. Restring the guitar, and check the action at the 12th fret. It’s normal for the action to settle a bit after a day or two, so you might need to adjust again. If the action is still too high, you can repeat the saddle sanding. If it’s too low and you get fret buzz, you may need to add a bit of relief or raise the saddle slightly (you can use a shim, or if you sanded too much, you’ll need a new saddle). Also, check the intonation: play the 12th fret harmonic and compare it to the fretted note. If it’s sharp, the saddle might need a slight adjustment, but on an acoustic that’s usually not necessary unless the saddle is severely altered.
Q: Can I lower the action without a professional?
A: Yes, if you’re careful and follow guides like this. The truss rod and saddle are easy. The nut filing requires more skill, so if you’re unsure, take it to a tech for that part.
Q: What is the best low action for a beginner?
A: For a beginner, aim for around 2.5 mm on the low E and 2.0 mm on the high E at the 12th fret. That’s low enough to be comfortable but high enough to avoid buzz.
Q: How often should I check my guitar’s setup?
A: Every 6 months or when seasons change, as humidity can affect the neck. But a good setup can last years if the guitar is kept stable.
If you’re considering a setup for your FG800, you’re likely aware of its value. It offers a solid Engelmann spruce top and rosewood back and sides, which give it a warm, resonant tone that rivals much pricier guitars. Its playability, once properly set up, is excellent. That’s why our [Yamaha FG800 is our top acoustic guitar pick for 2026](https://top10tierproducts.com/best-acoustic-guitars/). In our comprehensive guide, we compare it against other top acoustic guitars, looking at tone, build quality, and value. If you’re in the market for a new acoustic, the FG800 is a solid choice that will serve you well for years, especially after a good setup.
Remember, patience is key. Make small changes, measure often, and you’ll end up with a guitar that plays like a dream.
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