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The short answer: Focus on fit, lapel style, fabric, and details like buttons and vents. A well fitted tuxedo in classic black or midnight blue with peak or shawl lapels is the gold standard for formal events.
No matter how expensive the fabric or how famous the brand, a tuxedo that does not fit will look sloppy. Look for jackets that hug your shoulders without pulling. The sleeves should end at your wrist bone, showing about half an inch of shirt cuff. Trousers should break just above the shoe or have no break at all for a modern look. If you are between sizes, always size down and have it tailored. Many men find that a slim fit or tailored fit works best. Avoid baggy cuts unless you are going for a vintage aesthetic. Remember that a tuxedo rental is often ill fitting; buying your own and getting it altered ensures a perfect silhouette.
The lapel is the signature of a tuxedo. Peak lapels are the most formal and classic. They point upward and outward, creating a strong V shape that broadens the shoulders. Shawl lapels are rounded and smooth, often seen on dinner jackets and velvet tuxedos. They are less formal but very elegant. Notch lapels are common on business suits but are generally not recommended for a true tuxedo. They work only in very casual black tie settings. For a first tuxedo, go with peak lapels. For a wedding or party with a modern twist, shawl lapels are a great choice.
The traditional tuxedo is black, but midnight blue is actually blacker than black under artificial light and is a favorite among connoisseurs. For fabric, worsted wool is the standard. It drapes well and breathes. For summer events, consider a wool mohair blend for a subtle sheen and light weight. Avoid polyester fabrics they look shiny and cheap. Velvet tuxedos are trendy for holiday parties but not for black tie events. The fabric weight should be appropriate for your climate. A year round option is 8 to 9 ounce wool. If you attend formal events in winter, go for a heavier 11 ounce wool.
A classic tuxedo jacket has one button (single breasted) or two buttons (double breasted). Single breasted with one button is the most common and flattering. The lapel should have a buttonhole for a boutonniere. Vents: side vents are modern and allow easy access to pockets, while a center vent is traditional but can cause the jacket to flare. Pockets should be jetted (slit pockets) with no flaps for a clean look. On the trousers, look for a satin stripe down the side (the tuxedo stripe). No belt loops; suspenders are preferred. The trousers should have a plain hem with no cuffs.
A tuxedo is only as good as what you wear with it. The shirt should have a pleated front or a pique bib, with a wing or turndown collar. French cuffs are mandatory for cufflinks. Avoid buttons on the front; studs are used instead. The bow tie should be self tie (not pre tied) in black silk. Shoes are patent leather oxfords or highly polished calfskin. Cummerbunds are optional but must match the lapel fabric. Never wear a belt. For a complete breakdown of top brands and models, see our buying guide: Need the Best Men’s Tuxedo for 2026? Top 10 Formal Wear Picks.
Q: Can I wear a black suit instead of a tuxedo to a black tie event?
A: No. A black suit is not a tuxedo. The differences are subtle but important: lapel facing, satin stripes on trousers, and formal details like studs and cufflinks. You will stand out for the wrong reason.
Q: What is the best lapel width for a tuxedo?
A: The lapel should be between 2.5 and 3.5 inches wide. Very skinny lapels look dated and cheap. Wider lapels match the formality of the jacket.
Q: Should I buy or rent a tuxedo for one event?
A: If you plan to attend more than one formal event in the next five years, buy. Renting often costs half the price of a budget tuxedo and you get a poorly fitting, worn garment. A quality entry level tuxedo from our picks costs around $300 and lasts decades.
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