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The short answer: Setting up a sprinkler system for your lawn involves planning the layout, gathering tools, digging trenches, laying pipes, connecting to a water source, installing sprinkler heads, and testing for coverage. While the process is labor intensive, it is manageable for a DIYer over a weekend. This guide walks you through each step, and if you need a reliable sprinkler, check out our top sprinkler recommendations.
Before you dig, you need a solid plan. Start by measuring your lawn and sketching it to scale. Identify areas that need watering, like grass, flower beds, and shrubs. Note the water pressure at your outdoor spigot using a pressure gauge (most homes have 40 to 60 psi). Divide your lawn into zones based on water pressure and the type of plants; trees and shrubs need less water than grass.
Decide on the type of system: a simple above-ground oscillating sprinkler for small lawns, or an in-ground system with pop-up heads for larger areas. In-ground systems are more permanent but require more work. For this guide, we focus on in-ground systems, but many steps apply to above-ground too.
Check local building codes and call 811 to have utility lines marked before digging. You don’t want to hit a gas line or cable.
You’ll need these tools and materials:
Make a list and buy all materials at once. For quality sprinkler heads, consider brands like Rain Bird or Hunter, but compare prices and reviews. You can find a good selection in our best sprinkler guide.
Use your sketch to mark the path of trenches with spray paint. Dig trenches 6 to 8 inches deep for PVC pipe, and 10 inches for areas with heavy foot traffic or where frost can reach. The slope should allow water to drain; slightly slope the pipes toward a drain valve or the main supply.
Lay the pipe in the trenches, starting from the water source. For PVC, cut pipe to length, clean the ends, apply primer and cement, and join. Use compression fittings if you need to connect different pipe types. For poly tubing, use insert fittings and clamps.
Install a valve manifold box near the house where the water enters. This contains the zone valves and should be accessible for repairs.
Shut off the main water supply. Install a tee fitting at the outdoor spigot or the main line. From the tee, run a pipe to the backflow preventer, then to the manifold. The backflow preventer must be installed at least 12 inches above the highest sprinkler head to meet code.
Connect the manifold to the main line with a shut-off valve. Then connect each zone valve to the appropriate pipe that runs to the zone’s sprinkler heads. Use a pressure regulator if water pressure exceeds 80 psi.
After all connections are made, allow the cement to dry for the recommended time (usually 30 minutes before testing).
Position sprinkler heads according to your plan, typically 8 to 12 feet apart for sprays, 12 to 20 feet for rotors. Place them so there is head-to-head coverage, meaning each head’s spray reaches the next head. This ensures even watering.
Attach a riser to the tee fitting at the end of each branch. The riser should be long enough so the head is flush with the ground when fully extended. Use a level to ensure heads are straight. For pop-up heads, the top should be level with the soil.
Screw the head onto the riser. Adjust the spray pattern and radius by turning the adjustment screw on the head. Some rotors have a slot for a flathead screwdriver to set the arc.
Turn on the water at the main supply and open the test valves. Check for leaks at all connections and repair any you find. Then turn on one zone at a time and observe the spray. Look for dry spots or overspray. Adjust the heads to cover the area properly.
Place a few empty tuna cans in different spots within the zone and run the system for 15 minutes. Measure the water depth in each can. The average should be about 0.5 inches per session, but this varies by soil and climate. Adjust the runtime on your timer accordingly.
If you have low water pressure, consider using drip irrigation for flower beds or installing a booster pump. For more tips, read our guide on choosing the best sprinkler.
Connect your timer to the valve wires. Run wires from each valve to the timer, using waterproof connectors. Mount the timer indoors, near an outlet, or use a battery-operated one. Program your zones with start times and durations.
Before winter, you must drain the system to prevent freeze damage. If you have a manual drain valve, open it and let water out. For automatic systems, use an air compressor to blow out the pipes. Remove any above-ground components and store them inside.
For most areas, 6 to 8 inches is sufficient. In colder climates, go deeper (10 to 12 inches) to avoid frost. Check local codes for specific requirements.
Yes, you can use an above-ground system with hoses and oscillating sprinklers. For a more permanent but less invasive option, consider a drip system that lies on the surface or under mulch. These are easier to install but may not cover large lawns as evenly.
Most lawns need about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall. Water 2 to 3 times a week for 30 minutes per session, but adjust based on soil, weather, and local restrictions. The best time is early morning to reduce evaporation.
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